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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.